Snails & Slugs Control

Snails and slugs are among the most bothersome pests in many garden and landscape situations. Both snails and slugs are members of the mollusk phylum and are similar in structure and biology, except slugs lack the snail's external spiral shell. Snails and slugs move by gliding along on a muscular "foot." This muscle constantly secretes mucus, which later dries to form the silvery "slime trail" that signals the presence of either pest, making it - fortunately - pretty easy to spot. Snails and slugs are most active at night and on cloudy or foggy days. On sunny days they seek hiding places out of the heat and bright light; often the only clues to their presence are their silvery trails and plant damage. In mild-winter areas such as southern coastal locations, young snails and slugs can be active throughout the year. Generally the can't tolerate extremes in either direction.

Damage

Snails and slugs feed on a variety of living plants as well as on decaying plant matter. On plants they chew holes with smooth edges in leaves and flowers and can clip succulent plant parts. They can also chew fruit and young plant bark. Because they prefer succulent foliage or flowers, they are primarily pests of seedlings and herbaceous plants, but they are also serious pests of ripening fruits, such as strawberries, artichokes, and tomatoes, that are close to the ground. However, they will also feed on foliage and fruit of some trees; citrus are especially susceptible to damage. Look for their silvery mucous trails to confirm damage was caused by slugs or snails and not earwigs, caterpillars, or other chewing insects.

Control

The first method is easiest, although requiring a week's worth of strict attention - hand picking. The fact is, their trails are easy to follow. In as much as they prefer night and cooler summer temperatures, finding trails is easy. Trace them down a simply gather them up is the oldest way. Using a flashlight at night can make this much more do able. There is typically a finite number and a thorough cleaning of them can do the trick. Bear in mind, they typically hide as close to their food as possible, so try and leave zero places, such as planks, refuse and the likes where they can hide.

Snails and slugs can be trapped under boards or flower pots positioned throughout the garden and landscape. Inverted melon rinds make good traps. You can make traps from 12" x 15" boards (or any easy-to-handle size) raised off the ground by 1-inch runners. The runners make it easy for the pests to crawl underneath. Scrape off the accumulated snails and slugs daily and destroy them. Do not use salt to destroy snails and slugs; it will increase soil salinity.

Secondly, the famous "copper strip" (Copper Foil) is an amazingly effective barrier device. A small thin piece of copper flashing in impossible for them to cross. Evidently, something about the moisture interacting and producing electrical discharge is an entirely effective method of operating.

"Snail Baits" are also effective but they tend to be chemically toxic to pets, so there is a limited audience for these and it also has the possibility of contaminating plants, leading to their ingestion. I don't like it.

A recently registered snail and slug bait, iron phosphate (available under many trade names including Sluggo and Escar-Go), has the advantage of being safe for use around domestic animals, children, birds, fish, and other wildlife and is a good choice for a garden IPM program. Ingestion of the iron phosphate bait, even in small amounts, will cause snails and slugs to cease feeding, although it may take several days for the snails to die. Iron phosphate bait can be scattered on lawns or on the soil around any vegetables, ornamentals, or fruit trees to be protected. Iron phosphate baits may be more effective against snails than slugs.